Detail on the Southern entrance.

The hill was leveled off in the 15th century when Queen Shinsawpu donated her weight in gold to embellish the stupa with gold leaf.  Her successor contributed four times his weight and the faithful have been plating it ever since.

In 1929 it was almost destroyed by fire and in 1930 and 1970 by earthquakes.

The main platform can be reach via four stairways.   This is the Southern entrance where we could have used the elevator but opted to climb the stairs.  The Western entrance has a flight of escalators designed for foreign visitors. 

The climb is well worth the effort as the covered walkways are crowded with vendors selling flowers, both real and beautifully fashioned paper offerings, incense, ceremonial umbrellas, Buddha images, monks robes, prayer beads and increasingly I imagine, tourist souvenirs.  

Beside the covered walkway is a parallel flight of steps also flanked with vendors but these seem more geared to a monastic clientele.