Jaisalmer Beyond The Fort

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Veranda of Maharaja Kishansing Bhali,
Off the veranda at the  Nachana Haveli Hotel are the Maharaja's private quarters,  we were invited inside, just one room, but what a room. It must be 40' long and double vaulted like the veranda.  The decor could most charitably be described as eclectic.  I liked this hotel very much and would stay here.  From 'Saffron' the hotels rooftop restaurant we could look down on the square and admire the exposed transformer which served as a centerpiece.  Makes a change from fountains which are in short supply in Jaisalmer where water comes along a canal from the Punjab rather than falling from the skies




Patwon-Ki-Haveli the first and the grandest of the two we visited, sits in a narrow lane.  Built by the wealthy brocade merchant Guman Chand Patwa and his five sons over a period of 60 years.  The five interlinked haveli have exquisite murals.

built for the prime minister by two brothers, each being responsible for one half, when they met in the middle they discovered the two sides were not mirror images - oops

Interior Patwon-Ki-Haveli

Kitchen Patwon-Ki-Haveli

Girls in school

The peacock feather salesman of Jaisalmer

Dashing away with a smoothing iron


Our camel safari was to have been one of the highlights of the trip for me but proved to be the major disappointment.   Fanny decided to go along at the last minute and we booked through our hotel.  I had the option to camp overnight in the desert or return with Fanny after dinner.  We were driven to a village to await our camels
We waited for hours in the very pleasant village and eventually had to be driven out to the dunes to meet the camelteers
  To add insult to injury Fanny and I were then taken along the edge of the dunes whilst the others went out into the desert.  By the time I realised what was going on and insisted on going on to the dunes  it was  almost to late for photography and I was bitterly disappointed

My only photo on the dunes before the setting sun quickly disappeared, the moon stayed stubbornly behind the clouds
 Dinner, cooked under the elusive full moon by our camelteers was bland and uninviting.  I did not camp out but returned with Fanny to the hotel.  Amazingly Dev refunded our trip in full, to make us 'happy' but of course I wasn't happy and didn't have time to try again another day
We spent our last evening under the moon on the roof top terrace chatting with Dev
For the princely sum of $7 we took the overnight sleeper bus from Jaisalmer via Jodphur to UdaipurAs I incarcerated myself in my sleeping compartment the thought crossed my mind that if there was an accident they wouldn't have to bother finding coffins for us.   Meanwhile Fanny was already dreaming of being a purdahed Maharani carried through the streets in a palanquin.  I think that must make her an optimist.


Comfort break on the road to Udaipur

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