We had been making for Fatehpur Sikri but the festival of Eid following the end of Ramadan had ground the city into gridlock.  We sat in the car in the heat of the day for an hour before reluctantly deciding to give up and go to Bharatpur.  Fortunately we had been recommended a great little guest house, the Falcon above.

This is Lohagarh the Iron Fort, 

We really enjoyed our time in this laid back little city.  We took a cycle rickshaw around the streets and visited the Fort with Jim Carey (just joking Madam) and decided to go to the Keoladeo Ghana National Park next day.  

We were not having much luck.  The monsoon had failed yet again and there were no flocks of the rare Siberian Crane, for which the park became famous.   Once hundreds of pairs wintered here but the last pair failed to return in 2003. We saw very few birds.

We did see deer, blue bulls, jackals and mongoose and a variety of small birds.  Best by far was the lack of traffic, pollution and noise as we rode around in a different cycle rickshaw.    In other words it was a complete respite from 'incredible' hectic India.

Keoladeo Ghana National Park once the shooting preserve of Maharajas,  now birds and wildlife and not so wildlife safely roam.