With the dark came the illumination and the amplification.

The rafts remained tethered to the bank

We failed to see why so much loud music blared out.  We couldn't stand still as the rock music belted out but the locals seemed oblivious to it, not a toe was tapped as we swayed to the music.   This caused much amusement and their festival smiles broke out.  

Except for some of the children from the more remote villages..  Babies didn't notice us and older children weren't bothered but the 2 - 3 year olds were terrified so we gave them a wide berth.

We chatted to a retired American Dr. who volunteers at a small children's hospital and he told us of their terrible plight.  Most are infected to some extent by TB a disease unheard of in Cambodia before the Secret War, quickly followed by the Civil War which between them destroyed the best medical systems in Asia

Our lovely day ended as the last boats crossed the finishing line and a massive firework display rocked the sky..  

Next day the races continued and the many  thousands of people came into town for he grand finale.  

The American Dr, we spoke with at the river festival, laughed when we told him we were going to  Dr. Beat's recital.  He told us the good Dr. was after our money, had we been younger he would want our blood and middle-aged  he would want both!

And this was true, but what wonders he performs with our money.  While government hospitals, ripe with corruption stand empty, his are overflowing.  He provides 'his' children with state of the art diagnostic equipment and care.  All treatment, surgery and deliveries are free to the patient and family.

In 2007 12% of his operating budget was provided by the Cambodian and Swiss governments, the rest he raises from people like you and me.

If you are in Siem Reap on a Saturday evening, do go.